Trying to see everything in and around Luxor is a challenge. Most tours head straight to the Valley of the Kings (which is absolutely worth it). Then jump on a Nile cruise (also totally worth it). But there is much more to see. I still haven’t seen it all.
Dendera
I first visited in 2019. It’s easier to get there now with the new road, still as impressive, and absolutely worth a re-visit. The new road cuts the travel time to 70 minutes each way. Much better than the 140 minutes it used to take.
Visit Details
The temple is open daily from 0700-1700 and tickets are very, very reasonable. (NOTE: If a tour says access is included, don’t be overly impressed, ticket cost is 300EGP (~$5.75) + 100EGP (~$1.92) for crypt access.)
TIP: IF you go early you will likely have the place to yourself. It’s a 3-3.5 hour trek from Hurghada where it’s also a day trip option, just a much longer one.
Hypostyle Hall
The main hall is so impressive. It’s 17.2m (56.4ft) high inside with 24 carved columns. While classical architecture taught me the three basic column capital types (doric, ionic, and corinthian) Egyptian architecture has many, many more including the “Hathor-Headed” ones here. The others are lotus, papyrus, (see photos below) palmiform, and composite.
Taking this videos has me considering buying a gimbal to stabilize my videos and maybe help prevent cricks in my neck.
But not all of the impressive carvings required looking up. Each column was also covered in carvings.
Close up of the columns
Crypts
The main hall isn’t the only noteworthy sight. NOTE: If you are claustrophobic or unable to crawl do not attempt to enter. The entrance passage is less than 1m high by 1m wide. It does open up and you can stand and turn around once inside. As of June 2026, two crypts are accessible. There offerings were looted hundreds or thousands of years ago.
The way into the crypt.
You must climb down the steep ladder to access the crypt.
Zodiac
Carved into the ceiling (are you sensing the theme?) is a circular zodiac centered around the North Star in an Osiris chapel within the temple. Experts are conflicted if the chapel dates from 305 BCE (Ptolemaic Egypt) or from as early as 1600 BCE.
The original carving was moved to Paris, France in 1821 and can now be seen in the Louvre Museum. A replica was installed during the restorations.
It’s hard to see details in the replica, but you can buy a papyrus version that is much easier to understand.
Nut
There’s a chapel for the Sky Goddess Nut as a star-clad woman stretching across the ceiling, describing her swallowing the sun god Ra at dusk and giving birth to him each dawn.
Restored ceiling of the Chapel of Nut.
The Temple Site
The interior of Hathor Temple is obviously the biggest draw of the visit, but there are many other smaller temples surrounding it.
More Hathor column capitals.
Bes represents joy, dancing, music, and pleasures of life.
Another shrine on the site.
Workers conduct ongoing site repairs near an old entrance to the site.
Lotus Leaf Columns.
Sacred Lake
Near the back of the site is the Sacred Lake. It was used for rituals and purification. Don’t try to perform your own rituals. Now visitors can only walk (and take photos) from a distance.
View of the Sacred Lake.
This seems like a lot and possibly more than you can see in one day, but it’s not! You can and should plan to visit Abydos on the same day trip. Coming up in that post is how to book both and more tips.
