It’s a big world, and balancing new experiences with re-visiting ancient places can be challenging to your time and budget. It took me 25 years to go back to Jordan and it was even better now.
There’s so much do see for a small country, it can hard to prioritize. For your best trip here are my best tips.
Planning
In my Project Management Professional (PMP) training, they emphasize projects don’t fail in execution, they fail in planning. I like to think I’m an expert wanderer and planner. My general approach is do lots of research ahead of time to know my options. By knowing what’s possible ahead of time I can pivot if the weather doesn’t cooperate or something is closed. It’s never possible to know all possible options, but having a good series of options I can hopefully make good choices every day.
JordanPass
It’s almost certainly worth getting a JordanPass. If you plan to visit Petra for more than one day it’s definitely worth it. The first option is Wanderer (awww!) and includes 1 day in Petra. Explorer is good for 2 days, and Expert is good for 3 days. A day tripper (not staying overnight in Petra) single day entry is 90JOD vs the JordanPass Expert of 80JOD. Buying a JordanPass includes the 40JOD visa fee if you spend at least 3 days, 2 nights in Jordan.
The pass doesn’t include every site or museum in Jordan but does include 40 including Petra, Jerash, and Wadi Rum. There are 2 more options to consider when buying your pass. Bethany on Jordan 8JOD, normally 10JOD. Jordan Heritage Revival Company Train Trip FREE, normally 20JOD.
Pre-trip Homework
Download the Petra Offline Map for easy access.
Download a Google Map of Jordan for offline driving navigation.
NOTE: Cellular service is widely, but not universally available in Jordan and Petra, unlike 25 years ago! Definitely check to verify if your current service includes international data roaming in Jordan. If not, consider an eSIM. Many if not most, recent cellphone models support eSIMs.
How to check:
- iPhone: Go to Settings > General > About. If you see an IMEI number under “Digital SIM,” you’re good!
- Android/Samsung: Go to Settings > Connections/Network > SIM Card Manager. Look for “Add eSIM”.
- EID Check: Dial *#06#. A 32-digit EID number means your phone has an eSIM chip.
TIP: You MUST install the eSIM while you have wifi connectivity. I use Airalo to buy my eSIMs. The service starts when you arrive in the host nation, not when you download and install the eSIM. I like to do it before I depart for a trip to ensure I have service when I land or cross a border.
Whether you knew it or not you’ve probably seen many of the otherworldly sites in Jordan in many movies. Your pre-trip homework is to watch (or re-watch) some or all of the following:
- Lawrence of Arabia
- Dune 1 & 2
- Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade
- Transformers 2
- The Martian
- Rogue One
- Rise of Skywalker
- Aladdin (2019)
- Prometheus
Travel
The JordanPass includes a visa is good for entry at Amman Airport or Aqaba, but not King Hussein/Jordan River. If you’re coming from Israel (like I did) you can’t drive a rental car from Israel into Jordan, which made for some interesting, but manageable logistics.
Driving
I rented a car and drove all over. Fuel is readily available and not too expensive. NOTE: You don’t pump it yourself. And they accept cash dinars and or credit cards. Be aware there are LOTS of speed cameras, speed bumps, police checkpoints, and mobile police who will stop you for speeding. An International Driver’s Permit is recommended but not required. Be sure to check if your credit card includes overseas car rental coverage or purchase it directly with your rental.
As you may remember I love road trips and the ability to add a random stop or divert to the road less traveled by. My Waze Navigation route suggested taking Desert Highway to Petra, but I saw a sign and turned off for a more scenic route.
Scheduling
The train trip is only available on Sundays and Wednesdays in “winter”.
Petra at Night is only available Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday in “winter”. NOTE: Petra at Night is an additional 17JOD fee (you need a day ticket too).
Summer schedules for both indicated Sunday-Thursday availability.
PRO TIP: “Winter”, at least February, is an excellent time to visit. Mostly clear skies, warm, not hot days, perfect for hiking, discounted prices, and fewer tourists.
How long should I stay?
A very tough question. My first trip was an organized bus tour over 2 nights and 3 days covering Jerash, Amman, Mt Nebo and Petra. My second trip was also 2 nights and 3 days, but was just Petra.
I don’t like to over-schedule myself. Slow travel for the win. But time and money don’t always let me do everything in as leisurely a manner as I like. In 6 full days, plus 2 of travel, I took over 500 photos and dozens of video clips that I will spend weeks reviewing and writing up. If you have the time, I’d suggest 10 days in Jordan.
- 3 nights Dead Sea
- 3 nights Petra
- 3 nights Wadi Rum
I couldn’t take 10 days and had started in Petra so I could do Petra at Night which meant I did some backtracking. Petra, then Dead Sea, then Wadi Rum. Individual site write-ups coming soon!
